Hank Tanks/ bio-char/ paint removal/safety third

getting the valves removed from the standard propane tanks has really proved to be a hassle. the fitting has a very thin plate wrench mounting of one inch and one eighth inch, and the guard housing restricts movement on that access severely, necessitating perhaps even three different wrenches with different angled heads.

here is where we are at thus far:

Bio-char:
I had planned on hexagonal array of seven tanks, one placed center to the other six, (or whatever fits in that way, if not 6.) in a TLUD style char burner with obviously seven divided vessels. larger arrays would likely facilitate efficient energy transfer, or some sort of cascade result beneficial to moisture removal from the feedstock.

The first step down this whole road was in pursuit of getting the powder coating paint off the tanks, in preparation for plasma cutting, without too much fuss or nasty chemical crud, that perhaps we could just burn the paint off in a bonfire.

step two down the road was connecting biochar into the mix just for fun,

step three hundred and twenty eight (sometime last Thursday) was realizing that there is a better market potential for bio-char, and additionally for deer spooking noise makers, than there is for the oddball musical instruments I am so personally interested in manifesting.

~Background Info~
There is the potential of a source for larger size tanks without much cost or difficulty save for transport... I got a dozen tanks for ten dollars last i was there, so less than scrap price. lots of propane vendors all over the state, also junkyards, have piles of these around, they are not legal to use "as is" for propane and have not been since the 80's. they are difficult and costly to refit as new tanks are very cheap.

the problem it seems is that when brass and steel are pushed so tightly together such as in the threads of the tank, that they form a bond stronger than a brazed joint and the tank must be heated to release the molecular pressure of friction on the joints. we have now broken the jaws of a number of tools in attempt to release this valve without heating.

the proposed alternative solutions are:
A:
Removing the guard housing with a grinding wheel before the tank is evacuated of all propane residue, then mounting the valve to a bench vice and mounting the tank (now nude of welded connections and perfectly spherical) with packing straps and such.

B:
brute force impact with a remote triggered shotgun shell powered "safety cannon" (that conveniently already exists and can reportedly fire a slug of Rebar (?!!?)

I find both options somewhat intolerable to the general design principles of a musical instrument, yet somehow fitting the general schema of the bio char/deer spooker pandemonium.

truthfully the safest route may very well be heating the tank slightly with a torch or heat gun, however I refuse to do said act in either the back yard or basement of this calm suburban home that has been my place of stay up to said event and likely subsequent potential mayhem, perceived or otherwise to be an act of mayhem rather than friendly industrial craftsmanship.